The Kungsleden - Day 5 - Singi to Kaitumjaure

Distance: 16.7km (10.46 miles)

Climbing Elevation: 580m (1,9021ft)

Maximum Elevation: 801m (2,628 ft)

We are all allowed an occasional lazy morning, aren't we? It's the morning of day 5 and I was desperate for a little break from walking, just for a few hours. Also, I knew that I needed to wash all of my clothes and get them dry. During my research whilst planning for the trek, I noticed that those that were regular though-hikers all mentioned the importance of keeping yourself and your clothes clean. With all the rain we had over the previous few days, my clothes were smelling a little damn. The stream near my tent and the sunny morning were the perfect combination for a quick freshen up. Whilst having my mandatory morning dip in the icy cold water, I took my shirts, trousers and underwear and gave them all a scrub. Then proceeded to hang them all around the outside of my tent, on the guide ropes and on the boulders near the tent. Luckily it was very early in the morning, as I would imagine any trekkers walking past could have mistaken it for a yard sale. I also grabbed the opportunity to get out my solar panel and charge my camera batteries and GPS tracker. After a few days of rain and cloud, the opportunity to do a full recharge was something I didn't want to miss.

With all my clothing drying outside and y batteries charging, I also took the opportunity to sort out my backpack. Already there were things I used on a regular basis, and other things that were only being used when in the tent. Another learning experience was the art of living out of a backpack. A little investment in time now would make my life a little bit easier moving forward on the trek. Everything had got jumbled up over the past few days, mainly through tiredness. But now I wanted it all back in an order where I could live out of the backpack rather than getting all of the contents out each evening. Also, I was hoping that this little bit of investment in time would reduce the get-up routine time in the mornings. Once done, I boiled some water, made breakfast, had multiple cups of fruit and herbal tea, and washed up my bowl and cup.

With the morning breeze and the sunshine, my clothes were dry by around 11am, so it was time to set off. I started walking with a skip in my step, feeling refreshed, prepared and orderly. I was almost feeling like a real adventurer. I then spent the next few minutes reminding myself where I was and what I was achieving. I also noticed that the backpack was starting to become less of a burden on my back. Fitting much more comfortably - I am sure partly because I had packed it better, but also because I had taken the time to adjust the straps, allowing more of the weight to rest around my waist and less on my shoulders. It wasn't perfect but it was definitely better.

I picked up more chocolate when stopping at the STF Singi. I took the chance to rest on a rock beside the STF and drink a can of cola and a cup of coffee, watching a couple of hikers working out their route as they prepared to embark on the next step of their journey. STF Singi is situated in the loveliest of locations, nested in the valley with Kebnekese looking majestic as a backdrop.

A signpost near the centre of the STF location listed all the routes that can be taken. I smiled when I looked at the arrow pointing in the direction I was heading, with the letters spelling "KUNGSLEDEN".

This stretch of the trek has a number of wooden boards to help you across the uneven grounds and swampy areas. I am sure this is ideal in the summer, but at this time of year many of them have either broken, were loose or were covered in moss. The only time (or times) I had fallen over during the trek so far were where I had slipped from the boards and landed on my bottom or my back. With a 20kg backpack, my centre of balance was definitely not where I am used to and not even walking poles could keep me upright in such situations.

With the sun passing its peak and easing toward the horizon, I reached a part of the river Tjäktjajåkka that was wide and fast flowing. Time to take off my shoes and socks and soak my feet whilst rehydrating with several litres of ice cold water. The lazy day continued, because I sat by the river for at least an hour. My toes had turned from the usual pink to a deep red with the cold, but were feeling refreshed nonetheless.

The route took me further alongside the river to an old frame of a shelter. Walking around the wooden structure felt quite melancholy. Standing there, on its own, in the middle of the wilderness, being battered by the weather, nothingness for miles around. I sat in the frame and pondered about life for a few moments, before heading up into the hills.

The next stretch was a little more challenging than I had expected. Lots of steep uphill walking. Although, as usual, some amazing views rewarded me at various resting points. The first part was a sharp uphill through some brambles, soon arriving at a bridge over the river. Then the path followed the river further up through a wooded a mountain pass. I was now getting extremely tired from the day's trekking and each step became slower and more exaggerated.

All was rewarded with a view over lake Padje Kaitumjaure with its aqua blue glacial waters and the mountains hanging majestically either side. No matter how often I saw such sights, nor how tired I was, such views always managed to fuel me for a few more steps.

Hot, exhausted and very thirsty, I bypassed the cabin at STF Kaitumjaure, and found a suitable camping place near a small stream. I pitched the tent in record time, unpacked just my sleeping mat, sleeping bag and solar panel, along with my evening's food rations and stove, and settled for the evening. The packing change that morning had really made a difference. On the menu tonight other than the usual teas, coffee, hot chocolate was beef stew and mashed potato.

After eating I changed, washed and slid into the sleeping bag. It was now10:40pm and I could barely keep my eyes open.